My Trip to a Bullfight

The Plaza de Toros in San Lucar de Barrameda


Last night we went to the Plaza de Toros in San Lucar de Barrameda for a bullfight. We took the motorbike so we wouldn´t have to find parking, and we were smart for it. The bullring was smaller than I thought it would be so there really wasn´t a bad seat, if you were sitting in the shade. If not then you would be squinting and fanning yourself for most of the time. Luckily for us, we were in the shade.

There were three matadors and six bulls and they rotated through the evening. When the bull first comes out, he is full of energy and anger. After a minute or two though two guys on armored (and blindfolded) horses with spears come and stab the bull to make it bleed and to get dizzy. After that the bull doesnt really stand a chance. Then the matador or another guy sticks six smaller spears in the back of the bull two at a time. The matador plays to the crowd, often taunting the bull or holding the capote from his knees at this point. A few minutes later when the bull is practically walking dead the matador grabs a slightly curved sword and sticks it in the back of the bull from straight on. Surprisingly the bull still has some fight left in him, but eventually he falls.


The matadors and their assistants warming up

Afterward the three judges award the matador an ear, two ears, or two ears and a tail for his performance, based on the applause from the crowd. The matador walks around the ring in appreciation and people throw things to him which he touches or kisses and throws back.

Its all pretty gruesome and cruel, but interesting at the same time. The experience was fun and I can see why people enjoy it so much.


Morante de la Puebla taunting a toro!

Rota, the Lighthouse in Chipiona, and going to a bullfight!

The other day Rocio and I went to Rota, a town just down the road from Chipiona. It is a lot like Chipiona in some ways, and different in others. First of all there is an American Naval Base on the edge of town so there are a lot of Americans wandering the streets. The city also has a big lighthouse and nice beaches, but they seem a little too sterilized. The city government does a good job of making sure the streets are clean and everything is shiny, but I sort of missed the character and charm that Chipiona has.


Rota

We walked along the beach for a while and then went into town to poke around and finally stopped for tapas at a place called 100 Montaditos (100 sandwiches). The name says it all, the offer 100 different little sandwiches and a checkbox style menu that you take up to the front and they process your order. It was nice but a little corporate, something that doesn´t seem to go well with authentic Spanish food.

Ive been here for a month and I really enjoy some aspects of the culture that just can´t be found in America. Mom and Pop stores of all kinds are everywhere. Just about every business is family owned. It´s nice to know who you are giving your money to, and to know that you are supporting the local economy instead of some huge bank account somewhere.

TV in Spain is great. There are 10 channels that everyone gets through the antenna (nobody has cable) and they are really all you need. One show in particular that I like is called Españoles por el mundo and is about Spanish people living in other countries. Their lives, their jobs, what they do for fun, etc.

Yesterday I went up to the top of the lighthouse in Chipiona with Rocio and took a ton of photos. From up there you can see the whole town and as far away as Rota. It seemed a lot higher from up there than from the ground and it was reallllly windy, so windy that the railing didnt seem high enough! Ill post pictures here soon.

Tomorrow evening Rocio and I have tickets to a bullfight in San Lucar de Barrameda and then we are going to a barbeque afterwards. I am excited about going to see the famous Spanish spectacle for the first time. It will be an interesting experience no matter what I think about the ethics of it all. Pictures to come pronto!

Tourists, Tapas, & The Virgin

There´s nowhere to park. Not that I drive here, but still. The town has probably tripled or more in population since Friday morning from tourists escaping the heat of inland Andalucia. The beach is a popular choice, and why not? It´s free, and there are lots of fun things to do in and around Chipiona.

Last evening Rocio and I went to San Lucar de Barrameda for tapas and to walk around a different city. Around here, you go to Chipiona for the beaches and San Lucar for the sights. There are plenty of great places to grab a bite, a glass of barbadillo, and sit and people watch. This is the sherry producing region of Spain and they do a good job making sure that you know it. Solear, La Gitana, San Leon. These are some of the most abundant ads you´ll see here.


A bullfight poster in San Lucar de Barrameda

One of strange yet charming things about Andalucia is how people decorate their homes. Its so vastly different from America that its hard to explain. For one thing, I´ve been here 2 1/2 weeks and I´ve yet to see carpet anywhere. It´s just not done. Houses here have names as well as addresses. These names can be anything from Casa Antonio to Nuestra Señora del Rosario in honor of the virgin. I´m not exaggerating when I say that the virgin is bigger than Jesus here, she really is that popular. Every town has their own favorite version of the virgin at their church on display. In America, Christians love their Jesus, but in Spain they love his mom. In addition to naming their houses after the virgin, homeowners often put up huge tiled images with accompanying lighting of the virgin on the side or front of their house. They look great, I must admit.



Tonight is the 4th of July, I should be getting ready to blow some stuff up, but its just another Saturday here...